By day, most cities across the world present a similar picture — crowded roads, rushing people, the urban jungle-shrouded in a smoky workaday pall. But at night, the same vistas present very different scenes. As the lights come on and the streets start to empty out, many a city starts to reveal its hidden treasures — architectural marvels, heritage landmarks, vibrant cultures, even more exciting sub-cultures, local flavours, ghost stories and more. To help you discover these facets better — safely, and in company with likeminded people — tour coordinators are now creating special evening and night city trails.
A walk through Fraser Town in Bengaluru leads you to a meal fit for a king. As one traverses the neighbourhood around M M Road and Mosque Road, one gets to sample the many courses that make up the dastarkhwan, a ceremonial feast, the provenance of which can be traced to Central and West Asia.
This two-hour-long culinary walk, starting at 7 pm, is conducted by Bengaluru by Foot, founded by Ameen Ahmed and Mansoor Ali to help residents and visitors experience heritage — both natural and manmade — in and around the city.
Food trails have emerged as a very popular category with urban explorers. As dusk sets, streets come alive with food vendors doling out platters of chaat, chai and conversation. One of the most anticipated of these food trails is the Ramzan walk through Nizamuddin in Delhi, where one starts from the Shiv Temple and moves through Phoolwali Gali, Khwaja Hall, Attarwali Gali, Chausath Khamba and the Dargah Hazrat Nizamuddin Complex, before stopping for amazing nihari at one of the many food stalls.
In Pune, a popular option for foodies is to eat their way through the Irani cafés and landmark bakeries such as Kayani’s and Marz-o-rin, and then head for a walk through the Camp area. Sahapedia, an open online resource on the art, culture and heritage of India, conducted both of these tours last year.
Another popular Sahapedia walk is in Hyderabad, through the famous Charminar to Madina, where one would start with Irani chai and Osmania biscuits at Nirmah Café and end with dinner at Shadab. In Vijayawada, the “Mirch Bajji to Panipuri Walk on Gurunanak Road” is recommended. The neighbourhood is known for the softest idlis, but is slowly waking up to the enticing flavours of chaat and kulfis as well, with the influx of workers from northern India. Comfort yourself that it’s not simply about greed: understanding food and food history can also shed light on the changing sociocultural fabric of a city. See www.sahapedia.org
Akshar Travels has introduced a heritage night walk of the city, which starts from Siddi Saiyad Mosque, Lal Darwaja at 8.45 pm every night, and ends at Manek Chowk at 11.30 pm. The street lights and lamps throw aspects of the architecture into sharp relief — some that are all too missable in the glare of the day. It’s also a great time to interact with the community that inhabits the neighbourhood, with people back home after a long day at work.
The starting point of the walk itself is significant, both historically and architecturally, as the mosque was built in 1573, the last year of the Sultanate of Gujarat. The mosque is famous for its carved, 10-stone latticework windows on the side and rear arches. The night trail then takes one through Bhadra Fort, Bhadrakali Fort, the statue of Chinubhai Baronet (the first Hindu baronet in British India), AkhandJyot (where a lamp dedicated to Lakshmi has reportedly been burning for more than 600 years) and Lal Darwaja (the oldest market in the city). Call +917567639008
Guests also get to dine with a local family and savour home-cooked delicacies. Another such walk by the organisation, aimed at the curious traveller, is “Jaipur through the Sunset Hues”, which focuses on merchants and traders. It takes one on a colourful ride through the markets, especially to the hub of the Manihar craftsmen, who specialise in lac work. In the process, one is regaled with folklore about ghosts, friendly spirits, mythical figures and more. Email sb@indiacitywalks.com
Behind the scenes You get to see technicians at work, the flurry of activity and sets being put together
For those enamoured of the glitz and glamour of all things filmi, there is a night-time tour to take you behind the scenes — to all that takes place in the studios between “lights, camera, action” to “pack-up”. Bollywood Tours, a Mumbai-based travel operator, arranges for a guide to take you to film sets to experience a shoot at close quarters.