Wine and wandering in Croatia's Korcula island

Known for its olives and figs as well, the picturesque island is often ignored by tourists

There’s magic in the sunset of Korcula (pronounced Kor-chu-la). Behind the silhouette of the mountains, the flaming orange-red sun lends a soft glow to this picturesque island, which could easily vie for the top spot in all of Croatia as one of its most beautiful places. The warmth of the last rays of the sun casts a glow on us — three friends who have known each other for over 25 years and who have come on a vacation to Croatia to celebrate the strong bond of friendship. We blissfully soak in the magic, experiencing for ourselves the mysticism of the island in the Adriatic Sea, which, as legend has it, was founded by the Trojan hero, Antenor, in 12th century BC.

The centuries-old limestone walls and cobbled pathways are bathed in a saffron hue, giving this historic town its distinct character and timeless personality. At night, when the street lights shine on Korcula’s medieval towers and walls, it seems as though the relics of the past are waiting to share the rich history of the town. Rated among the greenest of Croatia’s islands, Korcula, located just off the Dalmatian Coast, is slowly getting discovered by enthusiastic travellers. 

Korcula island, Croatia

Such was the beauty of the island that post the Venetian and Austrian rule — for several years, Korcula provided timber for wooden walls of several buildings and palaces in Venice —the island was promised to the Kingdom of Italy as part of the 1915 Treaty of London in return for Italy joining the war on the side of Great Britain and France in World War I.

Through centuries of ups and downs, sieges and control by various establishments, today the town with 4,000 inhabitants is dotted with bars, cafes and restaurants that line its pathways. It is believed that Korcula is where Marco Polo, the famous merchant-traveller who discovered the Silk Route, was born. It’s another matter that Italy has been reportedly miffed at Croatia for staking a claim to this legacy. 

(Photo: Abhilasha Ojha)

The town, with several churches, museums and galleries, has architecturally rich homes, which have been converted to bed and breakfast abodes and studio apartments. 

At least one night in this charming town is recommended. Arrive by the evening catamaran (we came from Split), admire the lavish sunset, and use the next day to do a wine-and-walk tour of the old town, before catching the catamaran to another place. The four-hour wine tour will, in fact, allow you to discover the entire island of Korcula in a panoramic vehicle, passing through stunning viewpoints, lagoons, hamlets and interiors.

Our first stop is Smokvica (pronounced Smokvitza), a village with 1,000 inhabitants, roughly 30 km away from Korcula. En route, we pass forests of indigenous cypress trees, thick pine woods, olive and lime trees that have grown for centuries, towering over mysterious prehistoric caves and grottos, some of them accessible to public even today. Look out for “meje” or limestone stone fences along the island that make for an even prettier picture.

(Photo courtesy: KORKYRA INFO AGENCIJA)

For wine aficionados, Smokvica is a must-visit — it is the place where the Croatian white wine, Posiporginates, started its journey. The wine comes from Toreta, a family-run winery that was started roughly five decades ago by winemaker Frano Banicevic’s grandfather. The taste of flavoursome and aromatic wine lingers even as we proceed to Blato to sample more wines. Unlike Toreta’s family-run winery, where we see several antique tools of the trade, Blato 1902 is among Korcula’s largest producers of white wines, olive oils and figs. In Blato 1902’s tasting room, we break bread with extra virgin oil for our wine tasting. “This year,” says Diana Petcovic, a senior official of Blato 1902, “unseen low spring temperatures have led to frost that has destroyed our crop.” She’s glum but hopeful that the worst is over. We pick up bottles of extra virgin olive oil, figs and premium wines. Blato 1902 brings out only finest quality wines, much of it exported to Australia.

For wine aficionados, Smokvica is a must-visit — it is the place where the Croatian white wine, Posiporginates, started its journey.

That evening, back in town, after we have walked through several streets, including “the street of philosophers”, lit candles inside the 14th century, Gothic Renaissance-styled St Marks Cathedral, and seen other imposing monuments, we watch another spectacular sunset in Korcula. Giving us company is Plavac Mali, Croatia’s most popular and best-known red wine. There’s banter, there’s conversation and there’s gratitude for the fact that we are together in Korcula.