Festive code: Leading designers share notes on the look of the season

Abhinav Mishra

 

“We’ve focused on modular silhouettes — anarkalis with detachable capes, shararas with jackets, and stoles that double as overlays,” says Abhinav Mishra. His signature mirror work shines in bandhgalas, tonal sets, and airy pre-draped saris. For men, layering and softer tailoring redefine the kurta-pyjama, pairing it with jackets, asymmetric hems, and relaxed trousers. Fabrics tell their own story — from organza that catches the light at night to structured cotton-silk perfect for morning rituals. “It’s about celebrating heritage on your own terms,” he adds. 

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Soft-hued anarkalis

 

> Men: Cotton-silk kurtas with mirror-detailed collars

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Short kurta sets or relaxed shararas

 

> Men: Short jackets or relaxed kurta

 

Durga Puja

 

> Women: Saris or flared suits with statement dupattas

 

> Men: Kurtas with contrast stoles or light Nehru jackets

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Mirror-detailed lehengas or bright suits

 

> Men: Colourful kurtas with mirror work

 

Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna 

 

“Our bestseller is sculpted womenswear and tailored kurta sets with tonal embroidery for men,” says Rahul Khanna. Rich, solid tones — midnight blue, aubergine, ochre — replace heavy embellishment, relying on drape, texture, and layering for drama. Women’s pieces span blouse-jackets, overlay tunics, and pre-draped saris; men’s options include textured bandhgalas, shirt-kurtas, and soft-structured achkans. “It’s a sari with a blazer, a kurta with combat boots — tradition styled with confidence,” he adds. 

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Timeless kurta set with delicate embroidery + flowing dupatta

 

> Men: Cotton-silk kurta with churidar + Nehru jacket

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Co-ord set or crop top + dhoti pants

 

> Men: Short kurta + relaxed trousers/denims + light jacket

 

Durga Puja

 

> Women: Handloom sari + contemporary blouse

 

> Men: Asymmetrical ivory or red kurta with contrast piping + classic sandals

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Pre-stitched sari or kalidar kurta with light gotta work

 

> Men: Bright printed kurtas in linen/silk blends

 

Nikhil Thampi 

 

Power dressing takes a festive turn in Nikhil Thampi’s world — where structure meets sparkle and function fuels flair. “Our metallic bandhgalas and polki bead kaftan saris strike the perfect balance between simplicity and statement,” he says. Think jewel tones — emerald, burnt orange, gunmetal — with no overt bling. For men, it’s tonal layering, high collars, zip-in jackets and asymmetrical kurtas. He is seeing a shift towards sculptural separates and Grecian drapes with Indian detailing. Matte metallics, subtle embroidery, and architectural shapes redefine occasionwear for a new generation that values versatility with impact.

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: One-shoulder anarkalis

 

> Men: Bead-embroidered kurta + linen churidar

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Kaftan/jumpsuit sari

 

> Men: Open sherwani over kurta + relaxed trousers with sneakers/loafers

 

Durga Puja

 

> Women: Red lehenga sari with crystal string blouse or draped godet lehenga

 

> Men: 3D floral bandi over asymmetrical kurta

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Pant sari with holographic pallu + bodysuit blouse

 

> Men: Polki bead sherwani + linen churidar

 

Nikasha 

 

From relaxed kaftans and breezy shararas to kurta sets with silk chogas, comfort rules. Muted tones like sage, turmeric, rose blush and burnt coral speak volumes without embellishment. “Even menswear is evolving — our pink tussar linen kurta with an embroidered jacket was a hit,” says Nikasha. Menswear leans into olive, mauve, and midnight blue with clean cuts. Nature-inspired motifs — lotuses, parrots, and folk florals — draw from Indian miniature art but are reimagined for the now.

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Kurta-sharara in rose or turmeric with minimal gotta

 

> Men: Tussar kurta + foil scarf + coin-detailed pants

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Asymmetrical tunics or kaftans with cigarette pants

 

> Men: Lightly embroidered kurtas or linen shirts + denims 

 

Durga Puja

 

> Women: Marigold or ivory angrakhas or draped saris

 

> Men: Off-white kurtas + red-bordered stoles

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Block-print kurtas + silver jewellery + potli

 

> Men: Short embroidered kurtas + dhotis or relaxed trousers

 

Tarun Tahiliani 

 

Brides are changing and so is festive dressing – “Thank god!” says Tarun Tahiliani. Heavy-handed rules are passé, and now festive dressing is all about being oneself. “We listen — and we guide,” says the designer. “If someone walks in saying, ‘I want to look traditional,’ we help interpret that through silhouette, textiles, and colour. But we also say — don’t do anything just because it’s expected.”

 

Seema Gujral 

 

Today’s festive wardrobe is light, luxe, and multi-functional, says designer Seema Gujral. “Women no longer want to be weighed down. Structured bustiers, cape sets, and peplum tops can be paired with lehengas or trousers depending on the occasion.” Expect soft fabrics like organza, tissue, raw silk and net in dreamy tones, such as ivory, powder peach, steel blue, accented with tonal sequins, pearls, metallic thread, and 3D florals. “For men, sharp bandhgalas, layered jackets, and kurta sets in off-white, charcoal, burgundy or muted gold are timeless. Details matter, but subtlety is key,” she adds. Think statement pieces that can move from puja to cocktail with just a styling switch.

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Soft pastel kurtas or anarkalis

 

> Men: Cream kurtas with minimal embroidery + light jackets

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Dhoti pants + crop top + dupatta

 

> Men: Short jackets or relaxed kurtas over slim pants

 

Durga puja

 

> Women: Flared kurta or skirt sets in burgundy/mustard with embroidery

 

> Men: Deep-toned kurtas with subtle threadwork

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Shararas in pastels or short kurtis with palazzos

 

> Men: Earth-tone kurtas + printed/textured jackets

 

Shyamal & Bhumika 

 

Couturiers Shyamal & Bhumika’s re-engineered kalidaar lehenga offers lighter drape and styling flexibility. It’s easily paired with multiple blouse styles or western tops. Luxurious capes and structured jackets offer seamless transitions, from lehengas to trousers. For men, royalty-inspired structured jackets pair just as elegantly with a kurta as they do with a shirt, making them perfect for semi-formal to traditional occasions.

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Classic anarkali in pastel tones/rich matka silk with delicate aari chain-stitch embroidery

 

> Men: Ivory/blush/powder blue silk kurta-pyjama

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Playful blouse paired with tailored pants/bias skirt, or organza sari with painterly motifs

 

> Men: Relaxed linen/soft silk kurtas with trousers or asymmetric kurtas

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Their signature sari or sharara set

 

> Men: Kurta-pyjama set with subtle collar detailing, optionally with textured bandi

 

Varun Bahl 

 

“For women, festive wear has evolved to include pant suits, concept saris, and skirt sets; pieces that transition easily from puja to card party,” says Bahl. “Printed and embroidered lehenga sets with capes or jackets remain favourites.” Men, he adds, are embracing richer fabrics, printed bandhgalas, sherwanis with subtle appliqué, and bomber jackets paired with kurtas for a sharper, modern edge. 

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Lightly embroidered kurta set with a cape/classic printed sari

 

> Men: Ivory or beige kurta-pyjama or a well-fitted bandi set

 

Friends’ hangout

 

> Women: Printed tunic/skirt set, chic co-ord with embroidered cape, or printed dress with an Indian motif

 

> Men: Printed bandi with kurta and trousers, or subtly printed jacket set

 

Durga Puja

 

> Women: Embroidered lehenga set in a deep colour/ intricate, classic sari

 

> Men: Striking embroidered sherwani set (eg, in bold red) or a black floral embroidered bandhgala

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Festive sharara set/printed anarkali

 

> Men: Printed bundi set/comfortable, stylish kurta with subtle embroidery

 

Gulabo by Abu Sandeep 

 

Heritage shines bright in Gulabo by Abu Sandeep’s festive lineup. “We’re reinterpreting gota, resham, Bandhini, and mirror work through fresh silhouettes,” says CEO Saudamini Mattu. Their ‘Mithai’ line offers off-whites and browns in sleeveless kurtas, shirts, and open coats — great for Diwali soirées. For puja, gold-on-gold chanderi evokes quiet grandeur, while the ‘Zeenat’ range glows in pinks, greens, and yellows with sparkling yokes. Minimalists can turn to jamdani cottons with geometric motifs. From kaftans and tiered ghararas to collared blouses with tie-ups, these styles are steeped in legacy but spun with contemporary flair.

 

Aisha Rao 

 

Hyderabad-based Aisha Rao’s pre-draped saris, fishtail lehengas, and printed ghararas carry her signature print maximalism and whimsical energy, while remaining easy to wear across occasions. “For men, there’re playful bandhgalas, layered kurtas, and bundi sets.

 

Styling tips

 

Diwali puja

 

> Women: Flowy gharara set/pastel sari with subtle embroidery

 

> Men: Classic kurta with delicate collar or placket work

 

Durga Puja

 

> Women: Silk/tissue sari; modern Banarasi reworks with embroidery

 

> Men: Banarasi/tissue bandhgalas/bundis with detailing

 

Ganesh Chaturthi

 

> Women: Bright embroidered ghararas, pre-draped saris, or lightweight lehengas

 

> Men: Embroidered kurta or colourful bundi set