Healthy and delicious: India's regional food widens reach, appeal

Be it Bihari Champaran meat sold in roadside eateries or Mumbai Pao served to G20 leaders, state delicacies are going places

President Droupadi Murmu’s dinner on Saturday for visiting G20 leaders served Mumbai Pao, jackfruit galette with glazed forest mushrooms, and Kashmiri Kahwa. The menu represented India’s states and regions though it didn’t serve meat.

India’s regional foods, from ragi roti to Champaran meat, have long travelled all corners of the country: What is new is the discovery of the exotic and acknowledgement of their health value. As the government promotes millets, indigenous ingredients such as yellow Himalayan chillies, tree tomatoes, black garlic, and kaitha or elephant apple have found place in restaurant menus and home kitchens.

“Indian regional cuisines such as South Indian street dishes, Bengali specialties as well as Northeastern offerings, including pork and bamboo shoot dishes, are now famous amongst the locals and global diners and are widely celebrated,” says chef Ajay Chopra, who lives in Delhi.

"There is a growing interest in authentic flavours and culinary exploration, with chefs and food enthusiasts playing a pivotal role in introducing these diverse cuisines to a wider audience,” he says.

Indians eschewing processed and packaged foods are eating what was cooked in their home traditionally.

“We had given importance to nutritional value of each item and our ancestors created a beautiful full meal that consisted everything from carbohydrates to protein to anything essential for human body and also we have alternative to every harmful products – such as honey or jaggery instead of processed sugar; rock salt instead of iodine salt,” says Karishma Bhalla, a food blogger in Noida.

“Follow the practice of eating seasonal fruits and vegetables, which aligns with the wisdom of Ayurveda. It is believed that it is best to consume fruits and vegetables according to their seasons,” says Dr Sangeeta Tiwari, a clinical dietician in Delhi.

Indian cooking uses herbs and spices like turmeric, ginger, garlic, and cumin for health benefits. “We must learn about the medicinal properties of spices like hing (asafoetida), ajwain (carom seeds), and fenugreek. Use them judiciously for flavour and digestive benefits,” says Tiwari.

Celebrity chef Kunal Kapur recently took to Instagram to share the millet-based meal he served the First Ladies at G-20 summit. “India can teach the world about better cereals like millets as well as slow cooking. This is also the year of millets which are rich in minerals, iron. All our cuisine started with millets but the world uses highly refined flour which is not great for health,” he says.

“Ragi, also known as finger millet, is a great source of calcium and potassium. Ragi rotis are high in fibre and minerals and have many other health benefits,” says Prashant Parameswaran, chief executive officer and managing director of Soulfull, an FMCG company.

Ragi’s high fibre content makes it easier to digest; its natural fat content is lower than other grains, and it has unsaturated fat. Eating ragi and giving up wheat and rice is a good choice for people trying to lose weight.

Millet Express, a company, said its bestselling products like Millet Poori, Ragi Dosa, and Millet Khichdi have a customer repeat rate of 72 per cent. “We have the middle aged (diabetic/pre-diabetic) who were suggested to avoid rice from their diet. They order frequently (4-5 times a week). The second category is fitness enthusiasts and elites who are trying to adopt millets into their diet. They order 2-3 times a week. Frankly speaking, it's not an easy change. One has to overcome the perception that millets aren't as tasty as rice, which has a big placebo effect,” says Pavan K, cofounder of Millet Express.

Meat of the matter

India, according to some, is largely a "vegetarian" nation. It is not: Only 39 per cent of Indian adults describe themselves as “vegetarian,” according to a Pew Research Center survey in 2021. Biryani regularly tops the most ordered food lists Zomato and Swiggy put out annually.

Restaurants serving Champaran meat, a Bihari dish, now dot city markets across India. “Bihar boasts a rich heritage of culture and learning. From this historical region, culinary treasures like Champaran Meat emerged. Originating in the district of Champaran, it is a beloved dish that has captured the hearts and palates of people,” says Rakesh Sethi, corporate executive chef for South Asia at Radisson Hotel Group.

Ishi Khosla, a clinical nutritionist in Delhi, says "fish is the best of the lot" in meats. "Grills, kebabs and tandoori non-veg are great too. In curries, so long as it is light gravy not using too much of oil, it is fine. A good way of taking non veg is to combine them with vegetables. What is not good is poultry with hormones. In India, red meat is ok and isn't subject to too much contamination and its fine to have it once or twice a week."

"There are two things to watch out for- the nature of oil and the kind of heat you subject your food to. One should use good oil such as cold pressed oil, ghee, butter. Go for slow cooking, stir fry, pressure cooking and cooking styles which involve the minimum heating,” she says.

A potential downside of Indian food is its high calorie and fat content. “Indian dishes can be calorie-dense, so practice portion control to avoid overeating. Second is oil usage. Be very mindful of putting excessive oil or ghee while cooking. You can opt for healthier cooking methods like grilling, steaming, or sautéing with minimal oil,” says Tiwari, the dietician.

Price chart
 

An Indian meal for two will approximately cost Rs 700-1,500 in restaurants

Dish	Price (in Rs)
Lotus stem ships	355
Mumbai Masala Pav	475
Mini Chutney Idlis	495
Masala Khichdi	495
Champaran Meat	685
Dal Makhani	535