‘Writings on the Wall’ is a metaphor we have used for almost two decades now as we travel around the country — and sometimes in the neighbourhood — mostly, but not necessarily during elections. Writings on the Wall, because invariably, if you read what is written there carefully, with the ears, nose and mind open, you can read what is on people’s minds — what is changing and what isn’t and why. Often, though not always, these tell you who people want to vote for, or against.
The last time we walked through poll-bound Gujarat in 2012 (The Modi School of Marketing & Merely angry, Left-secular activism can’t defeat Modi) we noted that the “walls” you needed to read in Narendra Modi’s Gujarat were not the conventional ones as elsewhere, where you read graffiti or advertisements.
In Gujarat, we noted in 2012, the walls had a different meaning. They were the endless series of blank grey or white lines of factories flanking the highways. These were the canals brimming with water. And, if you looked down from an airplane and the land was dotted with small water bodies and check-dams, you knew you were over Gujarat. The invincibility of Mr Modi was written on these “walls”.
The important thing about Gujarat under Mr Modi was the absence of evident economic or employment stress, resentment over the riches of the “other”, and pessimism. This has changed now. For sure, there is no desperation or pessimism of the kind we saw in Uttar Pradesh, especially in its east during the last elections, but there is unhappiness, and the young don’t hide it. In villages, you see a sight more familiar in West Bengal — unemployed young men hanging around in clumps, smoking, watching their phones, playing cards, and generally whiling away time. They aren’t poor as in West Bengal — they often have motorcycles. But they are jobless, and many have had temporary jobs before. In Charal village, in the heart of the Tata Nano zone, two such clumps have young people mockingly mimicking Mr Modi’s speeches and cursing their jobless fate. Of course, these are mostly Patidars so a special sense of anger is expected, but this isn’t your usual, familiar scene in Gujarat.
If you want to know where it is coming from, see Ahmedabad’s walls. Along any wide avenue, these are painted — wall-to-wall — with advertisements of the kind we are familiar with in Punjab and increasingly in other parts of the country, selling easy admission to low-quality educational institutions overseas. Some were seen in Gujarat in the past too, but never in these numbers. Now, not just the walls, but the smaller hoardings, street-pole kiosks and unipoles are all filled with the same wares. America, England, Canada, and Australia we know from the many well-developed but now tired regions, notably Punjab. These are new to Gujarat in these numbers. Joining these destinations now is also a relative newcomer: Poland. Now Poland is no educational destination but when you are desperate to get out, any place will do.
The last time we walked through poll-bound Gujarat in 2012 (The Modi School of Marketing & Merely angry, Left-secular activism can’t defeat Modi) we noted that the “walls” you needed to read in Narendra Modi’s Gujarat were not the conventional ones as elsewhere, where you read graffiti or advertisements.
In Gujarat, we noted in 2012, the walls had a different meaning. They were the endless series of blank grey or white lines of factories flanking the highways. These were the canals brimming with water. And, if you looked down from an airplane and the land was dotted with small water bodies and check-dams, you knew you were over Gujarat. The invincibility of Mr Modi was written on these “walls”.
The important thing about Gujarat under Mr Modi was the absence of evident economic or employment stress, resentment over the riches of the “other”, and pessimism. This has changed now. For sure, there is no desperation or pessimism of the kind we saw in Uttar Pradesh, especially in its east during the last elections, but there is unhappiness, and the young don’t hide it. In villages, you see a sight more familiar in West Bengal — unemployed young men hanging around in clumps, smoking, watching their phones, playing cards, and generally whiling away time. They aren’t poor as in West Bengal — they often have motorcycles. But they are jobless, and many have had temporary jobs before. In Charal village, in the heart of the Tata Nano zone, two such clumps have young people mockingly mimicking Mr Modi’s speeches and cursing their jobless fate. Of course, these are mostly Patidars so a special sense of anger is expected, but this isn’t your usual, familiar scene in Gujarat.
If you want to know where it is coming from, see Ahmedabad’s walls. Along any wide avenue, these are painted — wall-to-wall — with advertisements of the kind we are familiar with in Punjab and increasingly in other parts of the country, selling easy admission to low-quality educational institutions overseas. Some were seen in Gujarat in the past too, but never in these numbers. Now, not just the walls, but the smaller hoardings, street-pole kiosks and unipoles are all filled with the same wares. America, England, Canada, and Australia we know from the many well-developed but now tired regions, notably Punjab. These are new to Gujarat in these numbers. Joining these destinations now is also a relative newcomer: Poland. Now Poland is no educational destination but when you are desperate to get out, any place will do.
Illustration by Binay Sinha
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