Trailing Hitler and Ludwig II

Bavaria is a study in contrasts, with its fairy-tale castles and Germany's first concentration camp

It’s an ironic twist of fate, but 33 years after the death of Bavaria’s most beloved, gentle and sensitive king, Ludwig II, Germany and Bavaria saw the rise of one of the world’s most insensitive, terrifying and dreaded leaders — Adolf Hitler. The history of Munich, Bavaria and the entire surrounding region is dotted with traces of both these men — one close to the hearts of the locals and the other inspiring shame and, perhaps, even hatred. Any trip through Bavaria will invariably take you to some of the spots associated with either Ludwig II or Hitler, often studies in contrast just like the personalities of the two men.

Perhaps the best way to see Bavaria is by driving your own vehicle so that you can cover the largest number of places in the shortest time. In Upper Bavaria, there is Dachau, Germany’s first concentration camp and a chilling reminder of what man can do to man in his worst avatar. Although one can hardly call it enjoyable, almost all visitors to Bavaria find themselves drawn to it — I have no explanation for why I have been there thrice — despite the fact that the hard, stark reality hits you anew each time. A guided tour makes the macabre trip more informative and brings out the true horrors of what prisoners endured.

Visually, Dachau is a perfect example of what you would imagine a concentration camp to look like, based on books and films. Gas chambers. Barbed fences. High watch-towers with guards keeping a sinister eye. Your hair will stand on end even if you will it not to. The first time I went, it was raining — grey, dreary and unforgettable. A short film on show in the theater is best avoided for small children.

In rather sharp contrast, Bavaria is also home to the beautiful, fairy-tale castle — Schloss Neuschwanstein in Fussen, a small charming town that’s worth visiting even if it didn’t have the castle. It is the world’s best-known castle and several Hollywood films have borrowed their medieval castle images — complete with gothic turrets — from this one. Created by Ludwig II, a king ahead of his time, a lover of music (he was said to be obsessed with the famous composer Wagner), arts and beauty, the castle offers a vivid glimpse into the king’s mind just before his premature and mysterious death. It is everything a castle should be — intricate, yet over the top, extravagant and impractical. Views from various spots in the castle are among the best you will ever see in your life, surrounded by lakes, the Bavarian Alps and greenery — much like a painted postcard. Some years ago, there was a lovely musical on Ludwig’s life that I was fortunate to see at the theater near the castle, but it has since been discontinued.

Come to Fussen via the Romantic Road — a stunning drive through some of the most picturesque towns of Bavaria, easily done by bus. From Munich, the castle can also be seen by a bus trip through a guided tour if one is short of time. The tour guides have a wonderful sense of humour and bring the region — and their beloved king — alive with their tales, more imaginary than real I suspect. One can ride up to the castle in a horse-drawn buggy and feel like royalty.

Although Neuschwanstein is by far the most visited spot in Bavaria and the most awe-inspiring of the castles, Ludwig II has to his credit — it led to bankruptcy for the crown — another three castles, including Schloss Hohenschwangau right next to Neuschwanstein where he spent his childhood. A day trip from Munich is Schloss Nymphenburg — worth visiting just for its royal gardens — the royal quarters in Munich.

At one corner of Bavaria, touching the border with Austria, is Hitler’s part-time headquarters and small country home. “Eagle’s Nest”, his mountain retreat, is where he chose to conduct his business soon after he became chancellor in 1933. At the top of one of the highest mountains in the area, the spot — for those willing to hike it a bit — is a chilling reminder of the Fuhrer and the indelible mark he left on the world.

If one is travelling by train, one of the last spots one reaches is the small lovely town of Oberstdorf, which becomes a ski town and resort of sorts in winter. Set amidst towering peaks and golf course green slopes, the town is a friendly place to do nothing except walk through its charming lanes full of irresistible little cafés and shops.

Call it a blessing or a curse, but both Hitler and Ludwig II are missing. You can actually spend two days just walking around — history-free — and wishing a day had many more meal times in it so that you could try out all the quaint restaurants and cafés. Food is excellent at almost any place you walk into. It’s small, sleepy and un-touristy in summer, so you can even land up with no bookings. You will still be spoilt for choice among the umpteen high-quality bed and breakfast options.