After a wait of 12 years, neelakurinji flowers will return to Western Ghats

While a standalone neelakurinji flower is pretty, it's the 'carpeting' feature of the plants seen en masse that paints a majestic sight

Of the 12 cardinal sins that are said to guarantee one a spot in the fiery halls of hell, gluttony is the one most likely to take me there. I find myself unable to resist appams fresh off the stove, served with spicy motta (egg) curry and hot cardamom tea. “Chechi [older sister], you do know we have to drive uphill,” a cousin reminds me. That makes me stop at my fifth appam.

Our agenda for the day is a visit to the rolling hills of the Eravikulam National Park, about 15 km from the tourist hotspot of Munnar in Kerala.