The car throws up flurries of dust at the old footbridge over Ramganga near Marchula. As we stretch our legs after the seven-hour drive from Delhi, a laughing thrush breaks the silence with its raucous call. From the bridge, in the crystal clear Ramganga, hundreds of mahseer swim lazily in the sun.
We cross and begin our 2.5-km hike to the Vanghat River Lodge, with the river as our constant companion. After we’ve made our breathless way uphill and downhill several times and crossed the river twice on a homemade raft, we finally see a thatched roof in the forest.

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