Mumbai attracts 1.5 million foreign tourists every year. To most people arriving into India for the first time, Mumbai – a mad khichdi of colour and experiences – is bewildering. The sheer volume of people and traffic, the garbage, the beggars, the chaos on the streets, the smells – both fishy and otherwise – that accost you, the contrast between the lives of the rich and those of the poor and the sea and the beguiling economy that unfolds around it can all overwhelm the most seasoned traveller. That there is a method to the madness is not evident to

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