Miguel isn’t your typical bicycle tour guide. He’s almost 65, potbellied and balding from the sides. Once the owner of an advertising firm, he now conducts bike tours of the city he grew up in for free. Last month, he cycled all the way from Vienna to Budapest, a journey that had him on the road for 10 straight days. “Money doesn’t interest me too much. You don’t know how long you’ll live,” he later says.
It’s my second day in Lisbon, and, desperate to experience the city in the most authentic way possible, I swiftly book Miguel’s tour on

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