The first to go was the neighbourhood barber shop, where one would head for a fortnightly crop to the accompaniment of soppy Bollywood music — a standard feature of salons no matter whether in Jaipur, Pathankot or New Delhi. The change came overnight, local entrepreneurs as well as international stylists taking over the beauty business. They were uniformed in cowboy gear, their hair-cutting equipment cross-hatched to their waists like gun slings. Senior citizens with receding hairlines bored them. They much preferred the millennials who did not mind a tint, or a severe tonsure, or strange indentations across the scalp, and
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