When I step into the room, 77-year-old Choejor Palden has a beatific smile on his face. His wrinkled face looks happy and at peace, as he listens to some old bollywood melodies I recognise instantly on a contraption that looks like a battered old radio – the kind we were accustomed to seeing 40 years ago and that usually said Philips or Murphy in a corner.
Palden is the store-in-charge at the Norbulingka institute – half an hour from Dharamsala in Kangra valley – a six-acre haven that is working to keep alive the Tibetan ancient arts, crafts and culture

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