It’s 6.30 pm in the northern Indian city of Varanasi on a cool January evening. Darkness is yet to fall but visibility already has. The cars on its teeming streets are hard to see from just metres away. But your tongue registers the dust obscuring the view.
Soon, your skin feels the coarse particles that make up this dust. There is enough of it here, according to 2018 World Health Organization (WHO) data, to classify Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s parliamentary constituency as one of the cities with the most polluted air on the planet.
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