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There may be 117 wineries and vineyards spread across India, but only a handful are fit for tours and tastings. Alok Chandra hopes the number will grow over time
At last count there were some 117 wineries in India - 72 in Maharashtra, 22 in Karnataka, 15 units making port-style wines in Goa, and another eight spread across the rest of the country.
Of course, not all the wineries are operating, and only one (Sula) seems to be making any money. Nevertheless, considering that just a decade back there were less than 10 wineries in India, this is a phenomenal change.
Wines, like other alcoholic beverages, are a state subject in India. And with each state having its own rules and regulations, and duties and taxes, it's like being in 28 different countries. Each state dictates the licencing rules (and fees) regarding the setting-up of new wineries, which vary from Rs 5,000 per year (before 'other' payments) in Karnataka and Maharashtra to Rs 50 lakh in Tamil Nadu.
Given that key constraint, it's no surprise then that wineries have been established in India in three 'waves'. The first wave (1986-1999) came about when three brave (or foolhardy) entrepreneurs ventured forth to set up wineries despite the absence of any support from the state or the centre. The wineries were Indage Vintners / Champagne India at Narayangaon in Maharashtra (1986), Grover Vineyards near Bangalore (1992), and Sula Vineyards near Nashik (1999).
Of these, Indage shut down in 2010 and is yet to reopen, Sula is the market leader in India with sales in 2012-13 of about 6 lakh cases (1 case is equal to 12 bottles of 750 ml each), and Grover is attempting a comeback after some years in the red.
The second wave came about in 2001 with Maharashtra announcing the Wine Policy (they called it a 'Grape Processing Policy'). The next 5-7 years saw the establishment of some 70-odd wineries in the plateau regions of Maharashtra. Located on the leeward side of the Western Ghats, the area stretched from Nashik in the north to Pune, Satara and Sangli in the South, with one spur of wineries coming up southeast to Pune along the road to Solapur.
Most of these wineries sell their wines only within Maharashtra, and quite a few have suspended operations due to cash-flow problems, so only a handful are selling their wines outside the state - Four Seasons (UB), Seagram's Nine Hills, Reveilo, Mercury Winery (Aryaa), York, and Fratelli.
The third wave started with the Karnataka Wine Policy of 2008, when wineries were set up principally in North Karnataka, near the Maharashtra border (near Bijapur, Bagalkot, Belgaum, and Bidar) where farmers had already been cultivating wine grapes and supplying to wineries in Maharashtra. Latterly a few wineries have come up north of Bangalore, near the erstwhile Grover Vineyards (now called Grover-Zampa after a merger with Vallee de Vin of Maharashtra) and three units - including the much written-about Alpine Winery - towards the South.
The Goan wineries are another matter altogether. The state has always had a liberal licencing policy for the production of alcoholic beverages, and the Goan 'Port-style' wines were the starting point for many a visitor (this writer included) into the arcane world of wine. The Vinicola unit in Margao (Adega de Velha) is possibly the only genuine port-style winery as most of the rest are making 'ad-mix' wines (of which the less said the better) in units that are actually spirit bottling units. One exception is, of course, the Big Banyan winery which, although in the same complex as John Distilleries (Original Choice whisky), bottles wine made from grapes grown in Maharashtra.
Other wineries are scattered around the country, out of which four are in Himachal (of which only two are operating), Luca in Haryana, the far-away Mizoram Grape Growers' Society in Champai district, one unit (Vinbros) in Pondicherry, and the Cumbum Valley Winery in Tamil Nadu, near Madurai.
Of wineries outside Maharashtra and Karnataka, only Big Banyan is found in the south and Goa; Luca's wines are available in the north, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh; some Goan wines are found in Andhra Pradesh and pockets of the north-east.
WINE TOURS IN MAHARASHTRA
Grover: Zampa & Vallonne Vineyards
Twenty km short of Nashik on the Mumbai-Nashik road, take a left to Wadivare village and continue about 10 km from the turnoff till branching right to the Grover Zampa Winery just off the road. If you continue down the Avarli road and take a left before Sanjegaon, you reach Vallonne Vineyards, located on a spur overlooking the Mukne Dam Lake. Both places require prior booking.
Sula & York Wineries
Still on the Mumbai - Nashik highway, take left at the Garware factory and through MIDC Ambad, following the cheerful yellow sign boards with the distinctive Sula logo to their winery on the banks of the Gangapur Lake. The property has two restaurants (Little Italy and Soma) and a beautifully-located tasting deck overlooking the vineyards - no bookings required. Just 1.5 km down the road from Sula is York Winery, whose tasting room and restaurant also overlook the lake, and requires no prior bookings.
Renaissance Winery & environs
Some 20 km from Nashik, on NH3 towards Agra, and just short of the township of Ozar lies Renaissance Winery (on the main road), with a walk-in restaurant but no organised winery tour.
The main wine-grape growing areas of Nashik are all in the vicinity of Ozar: to the left is Dindori, where you have Seagram's winery as well as Chateau D'Ori and the HCC-owned Charosa Wineries; further up the highway is Pimpalgaon, from where to the right are rolling fields of grapes (both table and wine) and Vintage Wines (short of Niphad town). Visitors are advised to call and set up appointments in advance and have a local guide.
Fratelli Winery
Go down the highway from Pune towards Solapur and turn right at Indapur (140 km) and carry on till Akluj town (30 km). Fratelli is outside the town (ask for directions) and requires prior booking for visits.
WINE TOURS IN KARNATAKA
Grover Vineyards
On the road to the new airport, branch off left about 15 km from Bangalore towards Yelahanka and drive another 24 km towards Doddaballarpur town; turn right just before the railway crossing on SH 207 towards Devanhalli and find the winery 4 km from the turning in the right hand side. There's a small and basic restaurant, and walk-in tastings/ tours.
SDU Winery
Another 30 Km from Doddaballarpur town, on SH 9 and 8 km short of Gauribidanur town, is the newest winery in Karnataka, with a first-class tasting room, but do book in advance.
Heritage and Alpine Wineries
Heritage Winery is outside Channapatna town, 60 km from Bangalore on the Mysore highway (NH 17 and SH 94). Walk-in tours and tastings. Alpine Winery is about 130 km from Bangalore - you could turn off left at Maddur and go to Belakavadi village, or come down the Kanakapura Road (SH 209) - anyone can direct you to the 1,200-acre property at a bend of the Cauvery river. Best to book in advance as the winery is some distance from the city.
OTHER WINERIES
NIRVANA BIOSYS (LUCA) Located in the Bawal Industrial Area, 100 km from Delhi on NH 8 going to Jaipur. You should ensure booking in advance
VINICOLA (GOA)At Borda, in the heart of Margao town in South Goa. The winery is situated at the back of a lovely, old Portuguese-style mansion, which has a little hillock. Call them in advance for an appointment.
All the wineries mentioned here are on the internet, from where their contacts can be gleaned. Although presently a small number of wineries are fit to be visited, hopes are that this trend will grow over time.
