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For the first few minutes after Ashith Achappa passes a few glasses with an ale-coloured beverage around, he’s alternating between saying “no”, and “try again”. Sitting around a bonfire in Coorg’s Kushalnagar area, guests at Achappa’s homestay take turns guessing the flavour of the wine their host has poured out, and this is a particularly tough round.
Tough because the drink has a gnawing familiarity to it: it’s sharp and has a distinct aroma. It’s like knowing you’ve met someone before but you’re drawing a blank when it comes to the specifics. “It’s betel leaf wine,” says Achappa. “Yes, paan,” exclaims
