Waves crash on Nam O Beach, lashed with rain and stretching as far as eye can see. A couple of holiday makers brave the weather to walk along the sea shore. It’s a peaceful scene. But as I close my eyes, I see not the present, but a tumultuous history of which this beach was an intrinsic part. For this is the exact place where, in 1965, 3,500 marines waded on to Vietnam’s shores, the first American combat troops to enter the country. Historical accounts suggest that the landing marines were welcomed by legions of smiling children holding garlands and

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