It rained there yesterday,” was the sweetest sentence I heard on a scorching day in Delhi, from helpful Mr Ali at the Madhya Pradesh Tourism office. Less than a week later, a friend and I were on the road to Mandu from Indore, our spirits soaring as the verdant landscape grew hilly and the arched gateways of this achingly romantic medieval citadel in the Vindhyas came into view.
Mandu, with scores of monuments in pinkish-beige Dholpur stone, shimmering lakes and majestic trees strewn across 30 square kilometres, tells many stories. It speaks of shrewd military strategy, daring hillside escapes, rebellion and

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