It’s a big time for fakes. Fake news. Fake art. Fake handbags. Fake sushi in LA.
And increasingly the focus is turning to the reality of fake wines. A few years back, a report in a French newspaper, Sud Ouest, estimated that 20 per cent of wines might be fake. That’s a huge number; experts doubt it’s that high, but it still indicates a growing concern. The problem is biggest in China, because of it’s exploding wine market, which is projected to be a $69.3 billion business by 2019, an 81 per cent increase over four years.
In 2016, Italian authorities seized

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