Dance music blares from a Riyadh café. In the foyer, young women in colorful robes line up to get their names on the waiting list. It’s the kind of scene that makes it easy to believe change is coming to Saudi Arabia at breakneck speed.
Half an hour’s drive south lies a different world. In the capital’s historic center, where prayers echo from loudspeakers and child beggars haunt visitors, 23-year-old Musid has nothing good to say about the social opening sweeping across Islam’s birthplace. “I’m against it,” he says, fingering a string of prayer beads in the jewelry shop where he

)