The lanes are narrow, winding, and flanked on both sides by old, crumbling houses that seem to want to careen into the road. There are hole-in-the wall shops and vagrant dogs that sniff hopefully at you. It’s a shabby place — one of India’s many overcrowded, down-at-the-heel urban localities that could do with some sprucing up. The yellow winter sun doesn’t quite reach the dank gullies here. Yet there’s a riot of sunny yellow shimmying around Delhi’s Nizamuddin Basti today. It is Basant Panchami, the day that marks the arrival of spring. And decked out in bright yellow, the vibrant