The other day, in the hinterlands of Mirzapur, Uttar Pradesh, I had an interesting experience. “Doctor sahib is here!” shouted the old woman shepherding her goats in the fields lying fallow. Across the hill, another call went out. “Doctor sahib is here!” And so the message was relayed to the clump of hutments a distance away. The doctor himself was a middle aged man on a motorcycle, with a bushy grey mustache and a large red handkerchief instead of a helmet, on his head. I caught his eye and asked him for directions to the village school to which I
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