Dozens of billboards throughout the capital of the restive Ukrainian republic of Crimea proclaim "Together With Russia," but a few have been hit by spray-painters who scrawled out "Russia" and replaced it with "Ukraine."
Crimea, a strategically important Black Sea peninsula that is home to a key Russian naval base, holds a referendum tomorrow on whether to seek annexation by Russia. The question raises strong passions on both sides.
Supporters say the region rightfully belongs to Russia and that the government that replaced fugitive President Viktor Yanukovych is a coterie of fascist-minded nationalists who will abuse Crimea's majority ethnic-Russian population.
Opponents bristle at Russia's heavy hand; Crimea effectively is already under Russian control after forces were sent in last month.
The referendum is denounced by Kiev and the West as illegitimate; the West is threatening costly sanctions against Russia if it moves to incorporate Crimea.
But the result is seen as a foregone conclusion Crimea is almost certain to vote to split off, further aggravating Ukraine's political crisis and one of the harshest East-West confrontations since the end of the Cold war.
Tensions are also high elsewhere in Ukraine. Today night, two people were killed and several wounded in a shootout that erupted after a clash in the city of Kharkiv between pro-Russian demonstrators and their opponents.
In downtown Simferopol, at least a thousand people today jammed a square in front of a soundstage and two massive TV screens as a long succession of Russian musical acts lauding "friendship of nations" and Russia itself.
Musical acts from distant regions of Russia sang folk songs and danced traditional dance. One ensemble dressed as fairy-tale characters sang "Don't Fall Out Of Love with Russia!" No Ukrainian flags or colors were visible.
Posters pasted to walls throughout the city center made comparisons between Russia and Ukraine for gasoline prices, doctors' salaries and student benefits. The comparisons all suggested Russia was a more prosperous country.
But referendum opponents at a smaller rally said the economic argument is foolish.
"It's better to be poor and live in a normal country than to live in a police state," said Ine Sultanova, a 66-year-old retired engineer.
