Influencer's sunscreen test sparks debate over SPF claims, marketing ethics

Independent lab tests reveal that several popular Indian sunscreen brands offer far lower sun protection than advertised, exposing serious gaps in product testing and transparency

You slather it on before stepping out, patting yourself on the back for doing the right thing for your skin. But what if that ₹700 sunscreen promising “SPF 50+ protection” is barely giving you SPF 15 in reality? This is what independent lab tests have revealed about some of India’s most popular sunscreen brands.

 

A new investigation by content creator and social media influencer with 1.6 million followers Nitin Joshi has found that six out of ten top-selling sunscreens in India failed to deliver even half the SPF (sun protection factor) they claim.   The video has reignited debate about transparency, testing, and trust in India’s booming skincare market.

The findings that set off the storm 

Ten popular sunscreens were sent by Joshi for independent verification to two government-certified laboratories: MS Clinical Research Pvt Ltd, Bengaluru, and Centre for Cruelty-Free Testing, MIET, Meerut. These labs conducted in-vitro SPF testing following ISO 24443 and COLIPA 2011 protocols, the same global standards used by leading cosmetic regulators.

 

According to Joshi’s post, six of the ten sunscreens tested showed SPF values far below their advertised protection.

 

Brand	Claimed SPF	Tested SPF (Mean)
Renee	70+	12.81
WishCare	50+	12.94
Dot & Key	50+	14.98
Lotus	50+	16.89
Deconstruct	55+	17.82
Foxtale	55+	36.9
Lakme	50+	52.96
Minimalist	50+	78.54
Derma Co.	50+	79.72
Aqualogica	50+	146.08

Source: MS Clinical Research Pvt Ltd, Bengaluru Joshi, known for his analytical videos decoding labels and marketing claims, shared the findings on October 19 via Instagram. He claimed he personally funded the tests, investing ₹2.15 lakh, to promote consumer awareness, not to endorse any brand. “The intent is strictly educational,” he wrote 

Doubts emerge over campaign’s independence

The video quickly went viral, amassing millions of views and enthusiastic responses from consumers. But soon after, scepticism began to surface from dermatologists and social-media commentators. 

Mumbai-based clinical dermatologist Dr Jinal Mehta questioned whether the campaign was truly independent, commenting under Joshi’s post, “What do you have to say about the proof that this is part of a marketing campaign that some influencers have received with a brief to promote your video?”  She also shared a post suggesting that the four brands performing well in Joshi’s test are owned by two parent companies, implying a potential commercial bias. "In-vitro (in glass) tests are not sufficed for SPF ratings. SPF tests need to be done in-vivo (on living organisms)," she said.

 

  Several others in the skincare community have echoed similar concerns, pointing out that influencers sometimes receive coordinated marketing briefs from brand groups seeking positive reinforcement for select products. While there is no conclusive evidence of such involvement in this case, the allegations have fuelled an online debate over transparency and accountability in India’s influencer marketing ecosystem as well as the marketing ethics of companies.

A wider concern: weak oversight

The controversy comes at a time when India’s ₹70,000-crore skincare market is seeing an explosion of direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands, according to a 2024 report by International Market Analysis Research and Consulting Group. Many rely on third-party formulators and contract manufacturers, similar to the “white-label” model that caused major sunscreen recalls in Australia earlier this year after consumer watchdog CHOICE found several products drastically underperforming.

   

India’s D2C skincare ecosystem works similarly. Many emerging brands rely on third-party formulators and shared production lines, meaning even minor formulation errors or testing inconsistencies can create large mismatches between claimed and actual SPF protection. 

How to protect your skin 

Dermatologists warn that using underperforming sunscreens daily can accelerate skin ageing and increase the risk of pigmentation, tanning, and UV damage.

 

Here’s how to protect yourself:

• Don’t trust SPF numbers blindly, also check PA ratings, which measure UVA protection. 
• Reapply sunscreen every 2–3 hours, especially if you are outdoors. 
• Choose brands that disclose testing methods or link certified lab results. 
• Watch the ingredient list; filters like Tinosorb M, Uvinul A Plus, and Zinc Oxide are proven UV blockers. 

“Your sunscreen should protect you, not just market to you,” says Dr Nirupama Parwanda, a Delhi-based dermatologist. “Always read the label and understand what you’re paying for.” 

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This content is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice.