Kutch handicraft under threat from a weed

Artisans of Kutch have found a better and more lucrative occupation following the good rains last monsoon. Artisans of embroidery, women labourers engaged in Bandhani, blacksmiths who make cow-bells locally known as kharaki are now engaged in making coal from burning Prosopis juliflora, a local weed known as Gando Bawal.

The reason is that the poor artisans get a higher income from making coals than what they get from embroidery or tying Bandhani saris.

However, an NGO working in the region says that the trend will not going to last long as after they run out of Gando Bawal, the artisans will have to return to their main occupation of making artifacts.

There are around 9,000 to 10,000 women artisans and labourers from different parts of Kutch engaged in embroidery and tying Bandhanis before the last monsoon.

However, after the monsoon and the unexpectedly a huge growth of Prosopis juliflora, a large portion of these women shifted to making coal out of the weed as it pays more than making artifacts.

The NGOs working in the region pay Rs 70 to Rs 100 for a day while they get upto Rs 200 per day from coal makers. According to NGOs there have been a major decrease in the number of workers as they find the new job more lucrative and easy.

Talking about this Pankaj Shah, co-ordinator of Bhuj-based NGO Khamir (Craft Resource Centre) and Qusab another NGO working on handicraft and marketing of handicraft, said, "Since the last monsoon we have noticed that the number of workers, normally engaged in embroidery, involved in Bandhani and weaving, has decreased following the tremendous growth of Prosopis juliflora in Kutch. They are now engaged in coal making units. We have witnessed the trend in at least 60 villages of the region."

The Craft Resource Centre works as a common platform for all the Kutch handicraft-related NGOs to market their products and revitalise the traditional handicraft.

Giving the reason for the trend, Shah said, "Making coals out of the weed is paying them more, they get paid for the work instantly and its an easy job. All they have to do is burn these thorny bushes. While in embroidery and tying of Bandhani, supervisors evaluate their work and pay them accordingly. Most of the NGOs, which employ these artisans, don't pay the workers on a daily basis. Workers have to wait for the month to end for payment. They are being paid Rs 200 per day for making coals while for working with a NGO they get Rs 70 to Rs.100 per day."

"But the trend will not last long as soon they will run out of Gando Bawal, they will return to their traditional occupation of handicraft."

However, there is a long time threat looming on the future of Kutch handicraft. "For the last few years, many industries have come up in Kutch. These include food processing unit, ceramic manufacturing units, saw pipe manufacturing facilities and many more. These companies are constantly on the lookout for labour. This can be a possible threat to the handicraft of Kutch," he said.

On the market for Kutch handicraft, he said, "The market is Rs 90 crore to Rs 100 crore per annum. Of this, around 30-40 per cent share comes from exports. The golden era of the Kutch craft was during '70s and '80s. However, after '90s we have witnessed a downfall in demand. But NGOs like Shrujan, Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan, Kalaraksha, SEWA's Kutch Craft and HUM are actively involved in revitalising the traditional art of Kutch."