Geetanjali Krishna: Making gods for a living

The other day, driving back from Chittaranjan Park - the favoured destination of Bengalis in Delhi - I chanced upon a colony of idol makers. They were busily at work on dozens of idols of Durga, getting them ready in time for the festive season. "The Navratras are starting in a week's time," said the master, when I asked if he had time for a chat, "I have no time to breathe, let alone talk!" In a huffy silence, I walked around, fascinated by the idols in different stages of completion around me, gazing upon the voluptuously endowed goddesses with their wasp waists and ample hips. "Forgive his rudeness," said a young apprentice, "My uncle is under a lot of strain to complete his work before the pujas begin."
 

His name was Sanjay Pal, and this was the first year that he was making idols for Durga Puja. He had come from Kolkata to cater to the demand for idols during Delhi's festive season. "This year, we are making about 50 idols for the pujas. Since I'm the youngest here, the older artisans have been giving me all the donkey work to do," he said. I warmed up to him, sensing he was the only one there with time for a chat. He took me behind their tents, where half-used mounds of raw material lay. "We get our clay from Kolkata, as it imparts a wonderful smoothness to the finished idol which normal clay doesn't," he said. His job was to make the bases for the idols. "I prepared them using jute, clay and hay," he said. The master artisan, he said, did the toughest parts - "He has given shape to the face and body, and once the idol is made, will paint the features on the face of the goddess," he said. "This is the most crucial part of making an idol, for Goddess Durga's eyes must reflect her fiery nature and her smile, her nurturing heart."

I'd heard of all the themes that puja pandals in Kolkata had - Durgas that bore an unmistakable resemblance to astronaut Kalpana Chawla, and the demon Mahishasura made in the likeness of Veerappan, and more recently, even the terrorist Kasab. "In Kolkata, the idols people want, change with the changing political scene, but in Delhi, people just go for good looks," said Pal laughingly.

The market for Durga idols in Delhi is booming, he said. "Every year, the number of puja pandals is rising. In Chittaranjan Park itself, there are so many neighbourhood pandals." Depending on the size, they sold each idol for upwards of Rs 10,000. "We also have smaller (and cheaper) idols of other gods and goddesses who accompany Maa Durga in the puja. Usually, we make them a few months in advance for the season," he said. The costs of idol-making were rising every year, Pal told me. The raw material costs had gone up, as had the costs of renting sheds for storage. "We're cutting costs by living in a tent with our idols, but end up bribing the cops every other day," he added.

I asked him what he earned at the end of the Durga Puja season. He smiled and said, "At the end of the month, I have barely Rs 4,000 in my pockets. But I'm still learning the trade! Next year, I won't be a novice anymore and will be able to command a much higher salary..." Looking at the frenetic activity around me, I wondered what they'd all do once the Navratras began. Pal smiled, "There'll be no time for rest, for we'll have to gear up for Kali Puja, and in the summer, we begin preparations for the next Durga Puja... I think that since we make gods for a living, God ensures our hands are always busy."