Suitably fortified

HIT THE ROAD

The Gwalior Fort totally dominates the city's skyline, and once inside you'll find it's a fine old structure. There's an eclectic mix of palaces and temples here (even a gurdwara), so you'll find walking around an interesting experience.

The Sasbahu temples, the Teli-ka-Mandir and the Man Mandir Palace are particularly nice, and it's worth having a look at the rock-cut Jain sculptures too. Nothing beats the Jai Vilas Palace and Museum for sheer eccentricity though.

Here you'll find a brandy and cigar carrying train set, (allegedly) the world's largest chandeliers, what seems like half the tiger population of India (suitably stuffed) and a discreet room of erotica. Also worth seeing are Mohammad Ghaus' tomb, which has Tansen's tomb alongside it.

Gwalior is 320 km from Delhi and it's a great road for the most part. Hotel Tansen Gwalior (Ph: 0751"�2340370, Rs 400 onwards) and Hotel Saya (Ph: 0751"�2510065, Rs 400 onwards) are good places to stay

Don't know where to go?
pablo@business-standard.com