I am standing between two worlds. To my right is a Delhi Metro station, a steely, swift example of modernism. To my left is the Red Fort, the power centre of medieval India. And in front of me lies the future — all dug up and adding to the phenomenal chaos that is called Chandni Chowk.
The 1.3-km stretch — with the red sandstone royal citadel built by the fifth Mughal emperor Shah Jahan at one end and the grand 17th-century Fatehpuri Mosque, built by one of his wives, Fatehpuri Begum, at the other — is the site of a

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