My account of ‘Some Really Good Indian Wines’ last fortnight was incomplete as it did not include wines tasted away from the wineries, so here goes:
Big Banyan wines are unique as they source the grapes from the Nashik area, but produce and bottle the wines in Goa, while deriving their inspiration from an actual 400-year old Banyan tree 30 km from Bangalore, off the road to Mysore.
Paul John, owner of parent company John Distillers (Original Choice whiskey), hired winemaker Lucio Matricardi and launched the wines in 2007. Over the years the range (originally the standard four varietals) has grown to include Bellissima late Harvest, Rosa Rossa (a blush Zinfandel), and a Reserve Shiraz. The company still distributes only in Goa and the four South Indian states.
I tasted their wines at the Vembanad restaurant, tucked away on the top floor of group property The Paul (Bangalore). The Big Banyan Sauvignon Blanc 2010 is outstanding — its aroma of ripe guavas and capsicum and clean crisp taste will give most Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc wins a run for their money. But what is exceptional is their Big Banyan LIMITED Shiraz 2008, a reserve wine I've raved about in earlier pieces — simply terrific, probably the best red wine in India today!
Earlier the same day I had tasted four wines from Four Seasons, the wine division of spirit major United Spirits Ltd whose Ritu Viognier made media waves in end-2011 by being listed with UK supermarket chain Waitrose.
The Four Seasons winery is located near Baramati, which is about 110 km south-east of Pune off the road to Sholapur, and sources its grapes both from its own vineyards as well as from growers all over the state. Business head Abhay Kewadkar is the most experienced winemaker in India, having cut his teeth at Indage and Grover vineyards.
Of the wines tasted, I rated the Four Seasons blush Zinfandel 2011 very high, while the Four Seasons Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique Reserve 2009 was just great, with good oak and fruit and body and a long finish.
Of course, there are many good Indian wines missing from this account: the Grover La Reserve, for one, which has been one of the best Indian wines for years. Another winery making waves is Fratelli Vineyards, also south of Pune, whose wine quality has been improving by leaps and bounds and which is now being distributed pan-India. Then there are the distinctively-labelled Aryaa wines from Mercury winery (Nashik) whose wines are generally of good quality. Last (but not least) I must mention the Mandala Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2009, which is a stunning wine, produced from some of the best Nashik grapes available.
And this is just the beginning. As the vines mature, and better equipment and winemaking techniques are adopted, we will continue to see an increase in the number of good quality Indian wines in the market — what’s important is for you, dear reader, to continue to try these new wines rather than stick to just one brand or label.
Wines I’ve been drinking: An unlabelled (and as yet not marketed) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 made by Krsma Wineries Hampi — a lovely and still-young wine, but with great aromas (fruit and spice), mouthfeel, balance, and complexity. It will be one of the best Indian wines when finally brought to market.
Alok Chandra is a Bangalore-based wine consultant
