Wall to wall

HIT THE ROAD

Situated to the north of Rajasthan, Bikaner is, like most other cities in the state, a royal walled one.

Dating back to 1486 AD, it was, on account of its location on the ancient caravan routes, a major trade centre linking central Asia and North India with the seaports of Gujarat.

There's a lot of the past here, although the modern city is cruddy and congested and has all but swallowed the old walled city. Still, look closely and you'll find colourful havelis and loads of character.

The city's other attractions are the Junagarh fort and the Lalgarh palace and there are a couple of ancient temples as well. Kolayat, Deshnoke (with its rat temple) and the Gajner wildlife sanctuary make for interesting excursions around Bikaner.

Bikaner is 550 km from Delhi, via Jaipur, Sikar and Mandawa. The Lalgarh palace (Ph: 0151-2540201, Rs 3,000 onwards) is opulent, but the Marudhar Heritage (Ph: 0151-2522524, Rs 300 onwards) is brilliant for its home-cooked food, spotless rooms and friendly staff.

Don't know where to go?
pablo@business-standard.com