At Amanbagh, relaxation is the main offering on the menu
How about spending a weekend in the lap of nature, hidden from civilisation, with no cable, little Internet connectivity, a place where you even need “permission” to drive?
That was how we were welcomed into the five-star luxury resort of Amanbagh in Alwar district of Rajasthan. Even our car keys were “confiscated” once we checked in. The objective: to enable us to rejuvenate in the sylvan surroundings and leave the tensions of urban life outside...literally.
Our expectations had nosedived once we hit the dusty village road off the Delhi-Jaipur highway that goes towards Dausa. The nearly 40 km-bumpy stretch took us past rolling farm lands and tiny hamlets nestled amidst the Aravalli ranges. My wife looked at me accusingly, her expression asking “Where are we headed?” Adding to the apprehension was the lack of signages on the route — we had to ask our way at each major intersection.
We were later told that according to the policy of Aman Resorts worldwide, no property of the chain puts up signages as they want guests to “go through the Aman experience of hospitality, which is to live amidst nature in total peace and tranquility”. We finally came across a stone plaque announcing Amanbagh three kilometres ahead of the deserted ruins of some houses on the last stretch of the main street of Ajabgarh village (which you enter through a medieval gate).
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Deriving its name from aman, meaning “peace” in Sanskrit and bagh, “garden” in Hindi, Amanbagh lies within a walled compound where the maharaja of Alwar used to pitch his hunting camps in search of tigers known to roam the nearby hills. Long since abandoned, the trees and vegetation continue to thrive owing to a source of underground water. Spread across 42 acres, the resort is quite the modern-day Mughal palace, an oasis of mature palm, fruit and eucalyptus trees, where Haveli Suites and Pool Pavilions provide a tranquil haven.
Ushered into the Pool Pavilion, we could do nothing but gape in wonder. It was located on the perimeter of the resort, with its own private swimming pool and spacious garden. Entry to the Pavilion was via a garden courtyard that led to a foyer passageway. The foyer provided access to the shared living area and bedroom on one side, and the bathroom on the other. The highlight was the bathroom that included a spacious dressing area, twin walk-in wardrobes and vanities, and separate shower and toilet. All suites feature a large bathtub in Udaipur green marble and are fitted with Bose sound systems and a personal bar.
The menu at Amanbagh includes only those dishes that can be made from vegetables grown in the resort’s kitchen garden. Since all the dishes are freshly prepared, there is no buffet system here.
Apart from massages (purely for relaxation and not for any ayurvedic treatment), the resort also offers recreation like camel polo, horse riding and camel cart rides. During our stay over the Easter weekend, an egg painting competition and a treasure hunt were organised for children.
Only 15 km from the resort is the medieval site of Bhangarh. We had heard stories about the ruins of the city being haunted and destroyed following a curse by an evil court magician. In fact, Bhangarh features on the list of most-haunted places in India. No entry is allowed inside the heritage site after sunset and even the Archaelogical Survey of India, which usually has an office inside monuments, has set up shop outside. Now home to langur and macaque monkeys, our early morning visit to Bhangarh went by without any encounter with spirits or ghosts.
However, all this luxury comes at a price, with the Pool Pavilions priced at a whopping Rs 45,000 per night. Which is why the resort’s clientele comprises only foreigners and the well-heeled Indian. So, if you have the moolah to spare, the experience is worth the money spent and is a tryst with nature that one should not miss!


