Grape expectations

THE WINE CLUB

Among the interesting wine-related developments of late in India is the increasing levels of consumer knowledge of, and preference for, wines made from specific grape varieties "" a welcome change from the days when all people would ask for was "red' or "white" wine.

Of course, the repertoire of grape varieties known to the average (though upmarket) wine consumer is still fairly limited: in white wines this extends to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Riesling; in reds to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Zinfandel. A few may also know about Viognier, Clairette, Muscat and Semillon (all white) and Pinotage, Pinot Noir and Sangiovese (reds).

So what really distinguishes wines made from different grapes? Are the tastes distinctive enough to merit the time and trouble required to differentiate? Or is the whole 'varietals' thing just a marketing gimmick (like Beaujolais nouveau)?

Let this be said right at the start: you cannot fool all the people all the time. Of course wines made from different grape varieties are different, typically displaying widely divergent aromas and tastes.

However, a "varietal" wine can have upto 15 per cent grapes other than the principal grape, and some of the best wines worldwide are blends (like Bordeaux reds "" a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc).

The most famous white grape variety of all is Chardonnay "" the one vine variety that has successfully escaped the confines of botanical nomenclature to almost become a brand.

This is the grape used to make Chablis, the famous steely, dry, white wine of Burgundy in north-east France, and is also one of the grapes used in French Champagnes (along with Pinot Noir).

A typical good Chardonnay will be buttery, with notes of peach, green apple, nuts and toast (the last only if matured for any time in oak barrels) and a crisp dry finish that is most refreshing.

This is a cold-weather grape that has spread worldwide to wherever grapevine will grow, but has not been successful so far in India "" the weather in Nashik is far too warm, although if Indage's vineyards in the Kulu Valley take off, this may change.

Consequently, there are few Chardonnays available here: Indage claims their Chantilli white is a Chardonnay, but one suspects there is a generous amount of Thomson Seedless in the blend "" nevertheless, the wine is quite drinkable (Rs 364, Bangalore; Rs 390, Delhi: and Rs 450, Mumbai).

Vintage Wines (a new Nashik-based winery) has just released its first vintage "" the Chardonnay is very good, even though a tad expensive at Rs 645 (only available in Mumbai).

Then there's the Chardonnay from Two Oceans (South Africa): its Rs 660/bottle in Bangalore, is not bad at all, though a bit astringent.

Other imported Chardonnays in retail include the Oxford Landing (Australia, Rs 1,200), Cinkara Victoria (Australia, Rs 1,365), the Kendall Jackson (California, Rs 1,950), Woodbridge Robert Mondavi (California, Rs 1570), Green Point (Australia, Rs 1650), and a well-priced Michel Laroche (France) for Rs 660!

More on grape varieties and the wines available next week "" till then, Sante!

al_chandra@vsnl.net