Leather trade eyes green norms

The Indian leather industry will streamline procurement of raw material in order to put an end to criticism from international non governmental organisations (NGOs) which has put leather exporters on the defensive and influenced consumer buying.

Council for Leather Export (CLE), a body under Union ministry of commerce, plans to improve facilities at the two cattle fairs in West Bengal and Tamil Nadu in consultation with PETA (People for Ethical Treatment to Animals), the animal rights group.

"Indian leather export is increasingly coming under pressure from European Union members and other developing countries from environmental, social and health grounds. We are trying to gear up to this challenge. The move to upgrade the quality of cattle fairs is part of that," S S Kumar, chairman of CLE, said.

The pilot projects to be executed in these two states would act as model for improving many other such fairs (haats) in the country.

EU accounted for 61 per cent of the in leather and leather products exported and the US-Canada market over 14 per cent.

"There is a possibility that a significant chunk would be lost if we do not meet new standards," Suparna Moitra, manager business development (consumer testing services), SGS India, admitted.

"You will see increasing demand for green products from EU consumers, more EU regulations and bans on chemicals, direct pressure from NGOs on retailers," Helmut Krause, of SGS Germany, added.

Markets at Uluberia in West Bengal and at Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu will be upgraded with emphasis on proper animal handling, improved facilities for sheds, fodder, water and veterinary care.

The project, to handle around 5000 cattle including cows, goats and buffalo in each market, will be funded by CLE and some other agencies. PETA has been taken into confidence in executing the project.

"Peta is most welcome to come and inspect those facilities," Kumar pointed out at the sidelines of a seminar in 'Green Textile and Human Ecology' organised by SGS.

He admitted that there were issues related to proper transportation and handling of cattle. "But this has to be seen in proper context. Many people in India travel in very poor transport units. The cost of operation has to be kept in mind," he pointed out.

Some developing countries have said the NGO criticism was a stage-managed one to help developed nations erect non-tariff barriers (NTBs). It had to be tackled nonetheless as the criticism was a threat to business.