As you like it

THE WINE CLUB

Sauvignon Blanc is the vine variety solely responsible for some of the world's most popular, and most distinctive, dry white wines: Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume', and a host of Sauv Blancs from outside France "" notably those from California, New Zealand, Chile and South Africa.

The wine's most recognisable characteristic is its piercing, instantly recognisable aroma "" typically grassy and herbaceous, often including gooseberries, sometimes flint (as of the Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume'), and even asparagus and peppers (as in Sauvignons from New Zealand).

The grape probably originated in the Bordeaux region of France, where it is often blended with wine from the Semillon grape, but it is in the Upper Loire valley (France) that Sauvignon is encountered in its purest form (as wines from the vineyards around Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire).

This position is warmly assailed by the Sauvignons of New Zealand's Marlborough area: wineries like Cloudy Bay, Hunter's and Vavasour are renowned for their legendary quality and the smoky, almost chokingly pungent flavour of their wines.

In India, Sauv Blanc is the second-most planted white wine grape (after Chenin Blanc), and almost all wine producers have a Sauvignon in their portfolio: Sula's Sauvignon Blanc is priced at between Rs 420 (Goa) to Rs 505 (Mumbai), while Grover's Sauvignon Blanc is Rs 356 in Bangalore, Rs 410 in Goa and Delhi, and Rs 475 in Mumbai.

Both are crisp, dry white wines with typical Sauvignon aromas "" the just being rolled out 2005 Grover Sauv Blanc has a zesty acidity that will soften over time. Indage has an Ivy Sauvignon-Semillon (Rs 440-530) that is also quite good.

Imported Sauvignon Blancs available include those from Cakebread Cellars and Duckhorn Vineyards (both from California's Napa valley, Rs 3,500), the Oxford Landing (Australia) at Rs 1,200, the Montes (Chile, Rs 1,075), Nederburg (South Africa, Rs 860), Cape Mentelle Semillon Sauvignon (Australia, Rs 1,740), Mount Avoca Semillon Sauvignon (Australia, Rs 1,465) and the delectable Cloudy Bay (New Zealand, Rs 3,875). (These were Bangalore prices in March 2006 "" which are likely to reduce by 10-20 per cent from April).

The huge difference in prices is largely due to the impact of the high customs duties on imported alcoholic beverages in India, which at 256 per cent to 145 per cent (inversely proportionate to cost) are the highest anywhere in the world.

Offerings in other cities (and duty free to the star hotels) include Sauvignon's from Kendall Jackson and Robert Mondavi (California), Tarapaca and Paso de Luz (Chile), Montana and Mount Nelson (New Zealand), and Henri Bourgeois and Pascal Jolivet (France).

A large number of wine labels is a sure indication of good demand "" itself a function of the quality/price continuum, never mind that prices of most of the imported wines are sky-high, people must have money to burn (or be on an expense account). Summer time is always a good time to chill with a white wine "" enjoy!

(al_chandra@vsnl.net)