Armani Evokes Dreamy Romance At Milan Show

Lightweight silk and organza in pale hues gave long flowing evening gowns and pants an ethereal air, with layered, translucent skirts floating behind models as they walked.

Sequins and floral, leafy embroidery on lightweight materials like tulle lent a rich shimmer to evening gowns, while narrow straight-legged silky pants worn under dresses and skirts infused oriental spice.

Armani said he was aiming for an oriental refinement and light sophistication.

The show at his palatial headquarters in the heart of Milan was accompanied by music composed by British rock legend Eric Clapton, who took a bow on the runway at the end.

 

Models sauntered down the catwalk barefoot or in tiny Eastern-style gold slippers, turned up at the toe and held by thin straps at a flat heel.

Colours included pale china blues, pale buttery yellow. Stronger coral, indigo, turquoise and violet were matched with greys, which Armani said were inspired by Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor.

A red ankle-length dress split up the back was worn over lightweight grey pants while violet or red trouser outfits cut deep below the arm were half covered with small grey overskirts.

The silver-haired designer avoided the ruffles and frills creeping in to other stylists collections this week which have ushered in a mood of greater femininity than previously.

Dresses mostly followed simple, elegant lines and were cut close to the body without being tight, often held by spaghetti straps and using transparent materials with discretion.

For daytime, wide or narrow straight-legged pants in light, fluid materials matched with buttonless and collarless jackets fastened at the breastbone and worn directly over the skin, kimono-cut jackets and long flowing duster-style coat-jackets.

Colours here were frequently greys, dark blues and what Armani described as icy brown, while fabrics included light linens and silks.

The Milan shows have produced a mixed bag of designs for the 1997 season, with top designer Gianni Versace introducing small ruffles and frills to skirts and slicing hems off at acute diagonals in a move towards more flirtatious sexiness.

Gianfranco Ferre produced a less pop and more elongated image with extensive use of elegant column dresses, saying a new sensuality lay in covering the female body.

Joan Kaner, fashion director at US high-fashion retailer Neiman Marcus, called Ferres collection beautiful and said: It was a different type of woman, a woman who is very secure about herself and doesn't really follow trends.